Friday, October 12, 2007

Cholmondeley Sound to Ketchikan

September 3, 2007

Before making the 30-mile run to Ketchikan, We tended our traps.



The crab trap felt very heavy coming up, it produced 14 large crabs, the non-resident limit is just 5. We hadn’t emptied the trap before two local young men who were actually out deer hunting in a skiff motored into the cove. George waved them over and gave 9 of our over limit catch to them. They gave us some of their smoked Sockeye Salmon, which was quite a treat.


Our prawn trap also produced 14 prawns. Which is not much meat by comparison. We are not sure what’s going on, it might be the lead weights we added earlier in the year to make the trap sink faster.

After crossing Clarence Strait we had a warm sunny afternoon of fishing around Vallenar Rock on our way to Ketchikan.




We picked up a couple good-sized Coho, 8-10 lbs each, and arrived at the Ketchikan Yacht Club docks late in the day.





September 4, 2007

We took the bus to the Yamaha Dealer and made an appointment for them to come to the boat and pick up the motor to do some overdue maintenance before we head out for winter.

That night we enjoyed the Potluck dinner at the Club prior to the regular meeting where they also voted us in as members. Now we have an Alaska address. Thomas Basin, Float 2, Ketchikan, AK 99901. Alaska has the highest-numbered zip code in the US (as our daughter pointed out, She does all the Internet research stuff).



September 5 – 13, 2007

We were blessed with great weather, sunshine every day to clean and dry out the boat for winter storage. We met with Greg from Latitude 50 Canvas to discuss the upholstery and canvas work we want for next year. The folks at Alaska Outboard Motors the Yamaha Dealer weren’t able to complete the work on our motor before we left for home, so they are storing the motor for us until spring.

Our last night at the yacht club, Teka, who lives on her Freedom 30, and is keeping an eye on Teal this winter, planned and prepared a delightful farewell dinner for us with John at the club.

We closed up the boat late afternoon on September 13 and were picked up by the Motel 8 Shuttle and taken to the motel for the night. We had dinner at Ocean View – introduced to us by friends of our neighbor Pete Haynes, Lallette and Don in our initiation tour of Ketchikan. It was a lovely night and as a good a dinner as we had the first time.

September 14, 2007

We awoke early to catch the 6:15am ferry to the airport, which is on Gravina Island. We arrived at the Airport – in the FOG. The price we paid for all those great sunshiny days while closing up our boat.

Our Alaska flight was to leave at 8:50am and we kept hoping the fog would lift by then, but it was not to be. We listened as our plane – coming in from the north pass over us – too foggy to land. We heard that sound two more times. That last time the plane flew over, they headed to Sitka to refuel. And two rebookings later, we finally left the “Fly Over Airport” as the locals call it, about 2:00 and arrived in Seattle around 4:00, with a departing flight via Horizon Air Lines to Bellingham at 10:35pm.

Since we had enough hanging out at airports, we tried to get an earlier flight. Alaska told us “No way. You have to stay with your checked luggage. It’s the law.” So Jo figured, that was it, but George insisted we check with Horizon and see if they would put us on an earlier flight. And they did. They put us on standby for the 6:30 flight, which was actually scheduled to leave at 7pm now. Overbooked though it was, we took it. They knew about the luggage having been checked in, but said if it wasn’t too inconvenient for us to pick it up the next day, there was no problem.

We didn’t learn until we boarded the flight (which wasn’t even full, let along overbooked) that Horizon had had most of their flights grounded over the last few days for some safety issue. We really lucked out… in more ways than one.

I made reservations at the Rodeway Inn in Bellingham while George was visiting with a gentlemen in the waiting area. He offered to take us to our motel when we got into Bellingham and so he did. Interestingly enough, his luggage didn’t show up and that was on the plane he was supposed to be on. Guess there’s no law against that!

Our motel was nice, we slept well, had breakfast, taxi’d to our car in storage, and drove to the airport for our luggage. There it was waiting for us, with name tags affixed to each one. They brought it out, thanked us, and off we went on our way to Klamath River.

Summary of the trip:

It was a spectacular cruise, totaling 1797.3 nautical miles. We burned 196 gallons of gas during 372 engine hours, we paid as much as $5.85 per gallon at Poet’s Cove in Barkley Sound and as least as $2.88 per gallon at Ketchikan. We anchored in 36 of the worlds best anchorages, moored at 21 different public docks and or moorings, and 8 different marinas. We fished a total of 47 hours, caught at least four dozen bottom fish, a 20 and 50-pound halibut, a dozen Coho salmon, our fill of crab, and about 8 dozen prawns. We saw numerous bear, whales, dolphin, eagles, otter, and a few deer. We met a host of new cruising friends, and crossed tracks with several cruising boats we had met before.

It was a pleasure to share our cruise with you.

George & JoAnne

Thursday, October 11, 2007

Hollis to Cholmondeley Sound

August 31, 2007

Jim dropped us off at the Hollis dock about midday, and we headed out though Kasaan Bay and into Skowl Arm. It was raining and the water got rough on our passage. The wind settled down, but the rain continued until we went into the Skowl Arm. We went into Saltery Cove to check out the Sportsman Cove Lodge and their fisherman “sculpture”; A stuffed character sitting in an overstuffed easy chair holding a fishing rod, sitting on top of a mid-channel rock. Quite whimsical.

We didn’t find an anchorage that suited us and went around the corner into McKenzie Inlet.










We found good anchorage in a notch along the shore at the end of Peacock Island (55° 19.930’ N / 132° 21.645’ W) and anchored for the night.





September 1, 2007

We left McKenzie Inlet in a light rain and headed for Dora Bay in Cholmondeley Sound. The rain cleared and as we motored along in an overcast sky and gray seas, along the way we rode up on top of a large 2x12 plank, a 16 footer, which was hidden in the trough of a wave. The boat slowed dramatically as the plank was pushed through the water. After the throttle was shut the plank slowly washed out and passed along side.

It was a nasty looking thing that had several large nails sticking out. We immediately checked the bilge for water and fortunately all was good, we continued without any problems.

When we arrived at Dora Bay we went into the un-named cove (55° 12.920’ N / 132° 16.319’ W) on the west side of the bay and carefully sounded our anchorage before going back out into the bay. We baited the shrimp trap with “canned tuna” per Jim & Zeke’s recommendation. Our depth sounder was not getting a good signal from the bottom and we had a hard time finding a spot for the trap. We left it in about 280 feet – we think.

We spent a little time bottom fishing the last of the flood tide before going back into the anchorage for the night. George caught some rockfish and a Yellow Eye before the bite went off.

September 2, 2007

Mid Morning we pulled anchor and headed for the shrimp trap. We got 1 prawn and 2 rockfish, another disappointment in our quest for shrimp.

After motoring back into Cholmondeley Sound (pronounced Shawmlee by the locals). We set the shrimp trap in a likely spot at the narrows in West Arm.



We selected a nice anchorage behind an island and a peninsula near the mouth of an unnamed stream (55° 15.085” N / 132° 23.936’ W). There was one other boat anchored on the other side of the cove.





After getting settled in we spotted eagles soaring over the water, and a bear on the shore of the peninsula.






Later George rowed the skiff out into the cove to set the crab trap.








This was our picturesque sun down.








More to come, George & JoAnne

Thursday, September 20, 2007

Ketchikan to Prince of Wales Island

August 26

After 5 days of updating the Blog, getting squared away, contacting friends of friends as well as Klamath River neighbor Jim Purvis who has "Rustic Resort” on Prince of Whales Island, and arranging to meet with him next Wednesday at Hollis; we left the Yacht Club for a few days of cruising and exploring the east side of Prince of Whales Island.

On our way north out Tongass Narrows we stopped at the South entrance to Bar Harbor and tied Teal to the service dock to provision at nearby Safeway. With the sun shining we headed up the ramp, bought our groceries, and walked out with our overflowing shopping cart – into the RAIN. What a shocker. Of course we were not prepared for such a downpour – our cockpit hadn’t been covered, so we proceeded to unload and store our “wet” supplies. By the time we were squared away the shower passed and the sun reappeared. This taught us that in Ketchickan, one must always expect rain no matter how the sky looks at any given moment.


After turning into Clover Passage we stopped at Knudson Cove (52° 28.338’ N / 131° 47.767’ W) to check out the sparsely provisioned store, and to get hamburgers at the local lunch stand.

We went into Naha Bay Tied to the public dock (55° 35.374’ N / 131° 37. 185’ W) near Loring and took a nice hike up to Roosevelt Lagoon. Over the years, many have taken their skiffs through the tidal rapid at high water and into the lagoon and left them along the shore for more convenient access, some were left with motors. We didn’t see anyone on the lake that day, but we enjoyed our walk along the boardwalk on the west end of the Lagoon. It was a nice quiet afternoon.

August 27

We awoke to turquoise-colored jet-drive tour boats bringing tourists into the entrance to the tidal rapid to check out the spawning salmon no doubt… maybe looking for bears…






We left Loring mid morning and headed for prawning/crabbing spots in Traitors Cove our Klamath River neighbor and long time resident of Ketchikan, Pete Haynes had marked on our charts.

George bought a 2-week Alaska fishing license that becomes effective today at noon. On our way into Traitors Cove, we set the prawn trap (actually called “shrimp” in Alaska as opposed to the Canadians being very specific that it’s “prawn”, as they are also very specific about calling the King Salmon of Alaska "Chinook" Salmon in Canada.

We docked along side the tourist floatplanes at the public dock at Marguerite Bay (52°42.231’ N / 131° 38.304’ W). They bring folks in to view bears on the trails going back into Marguerite Lake. George baited the crab trap with rock fish he had caught from the dock and set the trap out in the bay. Later that afternoon there was a chop coming into the dock so we moved to the mooring out by the island for the night. It was a full moon and eclipse, which we could not see because it was cloudy – no surprise!

After a tranquil night on the mooring we went out and pulled our traps: The shrimp trap had an octopus, 6 mini sand crabs, and only 4 prawns. The crab trap revealed 8 crabs, we kept the 5 largest over 7”.

We are very disappointed that the shrimp were not more abundant as we haven’t had many prawns/shrimp since we left Vancouver Island.


It was raining hard as we motor-sailed on a reach in a four-foot sea across Behm Channel and Clearance Strait. By the time we reached Prince of Whales Island the weather had settled some and the going was smooth.





We went into a little unnamed cove (55° 23.683’ N / 132° 15.063’W) and after carefully sounding the picturesque pocket behind the island in the entrance we set the anchor and settled in for the night.





The little babbling brook trickling into the cove became a full sized stream with each successive down-pour, and by bedtime it was a roaring rapid



August 29

We awoke to a 20-foot tide drop and our picturesque anchorage turned into a wall of rock with a puddle left for Teal. We worked our way out of the cove in between towering rocks that were not visible when we went in.




We had about 20 miles to reach Hollis and our meeting with Jim Pervis.





We no more tied Teal to the public dock at Hollis (55° 28.923’N / 132° 38.740’ W) when Jim walked up, He took us to his lodge and after we got settled we headed for a tour of his part of Prince of Wales Island (which the locals refer to as POW).



We stopped at Klawock to shop and check out the community. Our niece and nephew taught school there many years ago, so it was nice to see the area and connect it with the stories we had heard.






The Klawock Totem park is on the hill behind the school.





Jim was involved with the erection of these totems





August 30

We met Zeke Ziegler, a long time friend of Jim’s who joined us for diner, a fresh Coho Zeke had caught that day. He has built a cabin nearby. We were later to learn that most folks on POW and in Ketchikan seem to know Zeke. He’s a die hard fisherman, friendly with a great sense of humor and just happens to live in Medford, Oregon when not at Hollis.

Jim took us to Craig which seems to be the “thriving metropolis” of the Island. We had actually met a gal on one of our bus trips in Ketchikan who owns the Voyager Book Store in Craig. We introduced Jim to Gail and were shown around her store, which has top of the line books and gifts as well as gourmet coffee. We saw the new high school, which is first-rate, an “exercise center” with Olympic size pool and appointed with all the best equipment – free to all. Quite a lot of action in Craig.

More to Come,
George & JoAnne


Thursday, August 23, 2007

Prince Rupert to Ketchikan

August 19, 2007

After 5 days squaring away we left our spot next to Eastland (in back - side view) at Rushbrook Floats and stopped at the fuel dock to fill our tanks.




We went through shoal Venn Passage, Duncan Bay, and along the west coast to Work Channel.








We fished at Maskelyne Point along with several other boats, caught and released 3 Coho before heading up Work Channel.









We set the prawn trap in Trail Bay before anchoring in tranquil Zumtela Bay (54° 34.961’ N / 130° 22.386’W) for the night.





After getting settled in we had a rain shower and Jo captured this photo. Rainbows are so much more dramatic in real life tho.





August 20, 2007

After a peaceful night at anchor, we picked up our trap, collected a dozen prawns, and headed for Foggy Bay Alaska.

There were about a dozen boats fishing the point when we left work Channel, and no more than a half a mile later we almost went head on with a whale, he passed us in good seaman like fashion port to port, with no more than a boat width to spare.
It all happened too fast to get a photo.



We crossed into Alaska in Tongass Passage and had a smooth trip to Foggy Bay (54° 56.946’ N / 130° 56.435’ W).

We went into the cove with another boat coming from the north. We found 2 boats already at anchor inside, and before nightfall there were no less than 9 power boats anchored in the cove, one was at least 90 feet. All, but us, were heading south. This is the most boats we have seen at anchor since Fury Cove at Rivers Inlet. They were all heading south also.




We had a visit by Maureen and Van on Slante. They live in Tempe AZ, and annually cruise the Pacific Northwest, this year heading to Alaska in their new boat a Selene 40. They have been buddy boating with friends and were on their way back Anacortes to put the boat up for the winter. They filled us in on highlights of their visit in Alaska.

August 21, 2007

We left Foggy Bay with the last 3 of the boats in the cove, and headed for Ketchican. It was a smooth uneventful passage.

There were 4 cruise ships in Ketchikan, 3 at the docks and one anchored in Tongass Narrows.





We went into Thomas Basin to the Ketchikan Yacht Club (55° 20.460’ N / 131°38.434’ W), were greeted by Marvin, the club's treasurer, who extended a very friendly welcome and a host of local information.




We joined the yacht club and plan to leave our boat here for the winter. The facilities are nice and clean, the folks are friendly, and Bar Harbor is filling vacancy's from a waiting list. . So that pretty much takes care of it. It’s been nice here, cause we docked at the rear door of the club house and we can run in to the bathrooms, showers, phone, etc. One of the most convenient and accommodating places we have visited.


We expect to explore some coves and inlets in the area before we head back to California. We are looking for an upholsterer to get cushions recovered and some canvas work, a UPS shipping facility to send back stuff we won’t be able to carry on the plane.

We have enjoyed watching salmon come up to spawn in Ketchikan Creek. They are jumping, laying and fertilizing eggs, then dying.

We are awed at the size of the cruise ships that come in for a day’s stay. Today (August 23) there are 6 ships in port, with 9200 passengers slated to carouse through town. Pretty interesting since the local population numbers 8200.





More to Come
George & JoAnne

Tuesday, August 21, 2007

whoops!

I forgot to include Lat/Lons in the posts made from Prince Rupert. We had so much back log to do they just escaped notice. I will update those posts from Ketchikan to include the lat/Lons tomorrow.

George.

Saturday, August 18, 2007

Emily Carr Inlet to Prince Rupert

August 11

Rained last night. We left the Emily Carr around 10am – timed with the tide. Made our way out thru the narrow passage and headed for the prawn trap, mouths watering in anticipation… especially when the trap seamed soooo heavy while pulling it up. Well, the heaviness was from all the kelp (big leaves) that had gathered and weighted it down. There were little shrimp trying to get in the trap with no success getting through the kelp. We got 4 babies that we threw back.

Proceeded to Hartley Bay Bay (53° 25.461’ N / 129° 15.051’ W) under a cloudy sky.








We bought gas here at $1.47 a liter. Definitely the most expensive fuel so far $5.57gal.





This too is a native village like Klemtu; however this one has very sturdy boardwalks throughout the village. Everyone uses ATVs to get around. Seems that every native family has at least one. They are on an island in a small Village, so no need to have real cars.





August 12

We saw dolphins – 2 pods – leaving Hartley Bay. Sun finally came out around 2pm well on our way to Buchan Inlet.




We set the prawn trap on our way into Buchan Inlet (53° 22.415’ N / 129° 46.813’W).. Put the hook down at 4pm and the sky opened up. Very secluded protected anchorage among large rocks. Our boat dropped 18 feet during the night.



August 13

Low tide. All the rocks we didn’t see while entering are visible now. We got pics of the rocks in the passage into the lagoon.






We pulled the empty prawn trap and headed up Petrel Channel to Captain Cove. It was sunny and beautiful all day. We saw two kayakers near Mink Trap Bay going against the current. We had 2 to 3 knot fair currents most of the way. It is always exciting to make between 7 to 8.5 knots during a passage and it makes us appreciate how difficult it must be to paddle against that much current.

Since we left Hartley Bay we have seen and dodged more flotsam than we have had to deal with all season. What we haven’t seen is other boats, until a ketch anchored with us at Captain Cove. Where are the boaters? It’s mid August!

Captain Cove (53° 48.542’W / 130° 12.026’ W) is a great little anchorage with lots of sea gulls and ravens squawking.



George cast out light spinning rod and caught a couple little rockfish and voile’ “a big one on”. Turned out to be a 20-pound halibut. Just small enough for our boat, we have enough room for that much fish in our freezer. That was a nice finish to a great day.



August 14

Heading for Prince Rupert…. We left Captain Cove on a 20’ drop in the tide. We watched several seine boats setting their nets as we headed out Petrel Passage. A real work of art.






We were cruising along and all of a sudden we saw fog ahead…and we were heading straight for it. We made our way thru with 1/8 mile visibility, watching for floaters and other boats. The fog lifted just as we came to the passage at Lewis Island (54° 00.990’N / 130° 12.026’ W), so we found a place to anchor behind the island and stopped for lunch until the fog started to lift in Chatham Sound. We proceeded out toward Prince Rupert yet again and ran into 3 more fog banks before it cleared enough to see Prince Rupert…. But not before we went thru some pretty lumpy waters, reminding us of the Strait of Georgia.

The Yacht Club had no room for us and suggested we go to Rushbrook Docks (54° 19.545’ N / 130° 18.294’ W) which are the furthest real estate from town. A man from the sailing dock helped us get moored on a dock next to a converted seine boat.

Freda and Alfie live on their boat here at the dock. Very friendly folks and we enjoyed the time we spent visiting with them and their fellow fishermen friends over the few days we were at Prince Rupert.

After getting tied down we walked into town to pick up our battery charger at the 7-11 post office. Well much to our dismay, they didn’t have a package for George Benson. We tried to call Rachel at West Marine who mailed the package, but the store was closed already for the day.

August 15

We were finally able to get on the internet at the Chamber of Commerce visitor center after failed attempts to get on at Bob’s On the Rocks near the docks, and the Yacht Club. We had an email from Rachel telling us she had sent the package and had talked to the post office about taking delivery of it from Fed Ex. So we went back to the post office, still no one there new anything about it. The cruise ship was in and we had difficulty finding a pay phone that wasn’t occupied by someone calling his/her family overseas. We ended up at the Crest Hotel where we called Rachel, she called the post office, and lo and behold, there it was sitting on the top shelf. What an ordeal. But we have the charger, it’s hooked up and we’re charging the batteries once again.

We are staying at the dock for a few days getting chores done before we head out for a couple of days anchoring out as we go to Ketchikan.

More to Come in Ketchikan,

George & JoAnne