Back on the boat we dined on crab before turning in for the night. Tomorrow we will head accross Sumner Strait, into Keku strait for our appointment one hour before high tide at Devel's Elbow.
More to Come stay tuned,
George and JoAnne
Follow Teal on her cruise of South East Alaska
I put an extra 10 gallons of fuel in a flexible bladder at the aft end of the cockpit for the 280 mile passage to Sitka. The first leg of the trip was a 40-mile passage to Thorne Bay. The day started with overcast skies and sprinkles and just enough wind against the tide to make things rough enough to encourage hoisting a reefed main sail to steady the boat. By noon it had smoothed out and we had enough sun to be comfortable the rest of the way to Thorne Bay.
We found Raymond’s slip 55° 40.940’ N / 132° 31.367’ W and tied down for the night still early enough to visit the store and the rest of the little community of 600. As one local put it “300 here in town and another 300 you can’t see”.
The next morning after taking four good-sized male Dungeness Crab from the trap, we headed for Port Protection to stage for our high tide passage through the dreaded (by some local boaters because of the shoal waters at low tide) Rocky Pass in Keku Strait.
More to come Stay tuned,
George and JoAnne
Darlene is the net control for the Great Northern Boaters Net, managed by Barabara VE7KLU at Sidney, B.C. and Darlene KL0YC at Dora Bay Alaska.
Several Boats left for Dora Bay a day or two ahead of us due to the incoming weather being for cast. The day we left all the weather indices showed moderate conditions deteriorating later that day. We rode the last of the ebb tide out Nichols Passage in time to catch the flood tide coming into Clarence Strait in about 10 knots SE. We set a reefed main sail to steady the boat in Nichols Passage and motor sailed on a broad reach to Cholmondeley Sound, surfing off good sized waves toward mid day.
JoAnne went below to fix lunch as we turned into Cholmendely (pronounced) Cholmley by Alaskans. She no more than got the soup hot when the forecasted weather hit. It got a little hectic down below until I got the main sail down and the boat settled Ever since we left Washington we kept hearing that the ham rendezvous was at the Shack at the end of Dora Bay. When we got to the end of Dora Bay we hailed the Shack on VHF to get landing instructions, to find we were at the wrong end of Dora Bay, and that the Shack was on the little island just off Divide Head. It was a scenic ride, albeit we were a little on the cold and tired side.
Once at the shack we were directed to a neighbors dock where Bob VA7RAK on Counting Coup, an aluminum junk rigged ketch, David and Debbie AB7EO on Vagrant, a Halberg Rassy 42, and Eric and Sherry KD7QFG on Dolphin, a Monk 36 motor yacht were rafted on the deep side of a very nice, new dock. We tied Teal to the inside of the dock. Simon and Sunnie on Seascape, a 50 ft. steel Ketch had collected Barbara VE7KLU at the Ketchikan Yacht Club. She had flown in from Sidney, B.C. for the event. Seascape was tied up at the mooring in front of the Shack.
Kim and Eric on Abyssinia, a 60 ft aluminum motor yacht, was anchored further back in the channel off Divide Head. We all met aboard Vagrant for Hors d'oeuvre and had a nice visit getting acquainted. We discovered later that they all knew each other and had been here at least a few times before.
The next day Sherry and Eric invited us aboard Dolphin for lunch and a tour of their boat. They have made a lot of modifications to their Monk, which have made their cruising more comfortable and enjoyable.
We came back to Teal and fixed our potluck dishes for the rendezvous. About 4 PM we rowed our skiff to the beach in front of the Shack and hauled our dishes to the cabin. The Shack is a work in progress like moat all cabins in Alaska. Darleen and Floyd have done a remarkable job making the Shack warm, cozy and comfortable, we all had a wonderful time sharing all the great dishes brought to the pot luck.
The next morning all the boats took off to the respective destinations in spite of the threatening weather. We tied Teal to the vacant mooring in front of the Shack and went up to return a CD we had borrowed, and spent most of the morning having a great visit with Darlene and Floyd before heading to Kitkun Bay just a few miles away.Kitkun Bay is a very secluded bay and anchorage with a tricky entrance through a tidal rapid that can only be run in a sailboat at or very near slack tide. When we took Teal through, the ebb was still running 3 to 4 knots; but we were able to power our way through. Once we worked our way to the very end of the bay, we found an excellent anchorage that was as flat as you can get at 30 feet at 0 tide within a boat length or so to shore.
The anchorage is completely land locked by high snow capped mountains, save the narrow entrance into the basin. We anchored and settled in for the coming blow that started about 2 AM. By morning it was raining buckets, and while hardly any sustained wind could find its way in we had violent gusts that occasionally came off the mountains that healed Teal from port one time, then starboard the next, and pushed up little white caps across the anchorage.By morning the storm had passed and we took advantage of high slack tide to leave Kitkun Bay, head for Vallener Point and Tongass Narrows and back to Ketchikan. Our passage was smooth and warm and we pulled into the Ketchikan Yacht Club at Thomas Basin by mid afternoon.
Next we go to Sitka for canvas and upholstery work. Its a long trip between internet hook-ups it will take several blog postings to get the whole trip posted.
Stay tuned,
George and JoAnne
After six months tied to the Ketchikan Yacht Club and diligently cared for by Teka Lamade, who lived aboard her Freedom 30 "Allegro" all winter at the club, Teal survived the winter in good order.
Before making the 30-mile run to Ketchikan, We tended our traps.
The crab trap felt very heavy coming up, it produced 14 large crabs, the non-resident limit is just 5. We hadn’t emptied the trap before two local young men who were actually out deer hunting in a skiff motored into the cove. George waved them over and gave 9 of our over limit catch to them. They gave us some of their smoked Sockeye Salmon, which was quite a treat.
Our prawn trap also produced 14 prawns. Which is not much meat by comparison. We are not sure what’s going on, it might be the lead weights we added earlier in the year to make the trap sink faster.
After crossing Clarence Strait we had a warm sunny afternoon of fishing around Vallenar Rock on our way to Ketchikan.
We picked up a couple good-sized Coho, 8-10 lbs each, and arrived at the Ketchikan Yacht Club docks late in the day.
September 4, 2007
We took the bus to the Yamaha Dealer and made an appointment for them to come to the boat and pick up the motor to do some overdue maintenance before we head out for winter.
That night we enjoyed the Potluck dinner at the Club prior to the regular meeting where they also voted us in as members. Now we have an Alaska address. Thomas Basin, Float 2, Ketchikan, AK 99901. Alaska has the highest-numbered zip code in the US (as our daughter pointed out, She does all the Internet research stuff).
We were blessed with great weather, sunshine every day to clean and dry out the boat for winter storage. We met with Greg from Latitude 50 Canvas to discuss the upholstery and canvas work we want for next year. The folks at Alaska Outboard Motors the Yamaha Dealer weren’t able to complete the work on our motor before we left for home, so they are storing the motor for us until spring.
Our last night at the yacht club, Teka, who lives on her Freedom 30, and is keeping an eye on Teal this winter, planned and prepared a delightful farewell dinner for us with John at the club.
We closed up the boat late afternoon on September 13 and were picked up by the Motel 8 Shuttle and taken to the motel for the night. We had dinner at Ocean View – introduced to us by friends of our neighbor Pete Haynes, Lallette and Don in our initiation tour of Ketchikan. It was a lovely night and as a good a dinner as we had the first time.
We awoke early to catch the 6:15am ferry to the airport, which is on Gravina Island. We arrived at the Airport – in the FOG. The price we paid for all those great sunshiny days while closing up our boat.
Our Alaska flight was to leave at 8:50am and we kept hoping the fog would lift by then, but it was not to be. We listened as our plane – coming in from the north pass over us – too foggy to land. We heard that sound two more times. That last time the plane flew over, they headed to Sitka to refuel. And two rebookings later, we finally left the “Fly Over Airport” as the locals call it, about 2:00 and arrived in Seattle around 4:00, with a departing flight via Horizon Air Lines to Bellingham at 10:35pm.
Since we had enough hanging out at airports, we tried to get an earlier flight. Alaska told us “No way. You have to stay with your checked luggage. It’s the law.” So Jo figured, that was it, but George insisted we check with Horizon and see if they would put us on an earlier flight. And they did. They put us on standby for the 6:30 flight, which was actually scheduled to leave at 7pm now. Overbooked though it was, we took it. They knew about the luggage having been checked in, but said if it wasn’t too inconvenient for us to pick it up the next day, there was no problem.
We didn’t learn until we boarded the flight (which wasn’t even full, let along overbooked) that Horizon had had most of their flights grounded over the last few days for some safety issue. We really lucked out… in more ways than one.
I made reservations at the Rodeway Inn in Bellingham while George was visiting with a gentlemen in the waiting area. He offered to take us to our motel when we got into Bellingham and so he did. Interestingly enough, his luggage didn’t show up and that was on the plane he was supposed to be on. Guess there’s no law against that!
Our motel was nice, we slept well, had breakfast, taxi’d to our car in storage, and drove to the airport for our luggage. There it was waiting for us, with name tags affixed to each one. They brought it out, thanked us, and off we went on our way to Klamath River.
Summary of the trip:
It was a spectacular cruise, totaling 1797.3 nautical miles. We burned 196 gallons of gas during 372 engine hours, we paid as much as $5.85 per gallon at Poet’s Cove in Barkley Sound and as least as $2.88 per gallon at Ketchikan. We anchored in 36 of the worlds best anchorages, moored at 21 different public docks and or moorings, and 8 different marinas. We fished a total of 47 hours, caught at least four dozen bottom fish, a 20 and 50-pound halibut, a dozen Coho salmon, our fill of crab, and about 8 dozen prawns. We saw numerous bear, whales, dolphin, eagles, otter, and a few deer. We met a host of new cruising friends, and crossed tracks with several cruising boats we had met before.
It was a pleasure to share our cruise with you.
George & JoAnne
Jim dropped us off at the Hollis dock about midday, and we headed out though Kasaan Bay and into Skowl Arm. It was raining and the water got rough on our passage. The wind settled down, but the rain continued until we went into the Skowl Arm. We went into Saltery Cove to check out the Sportsman Cove Lodge and their fisherman “sculpture”; A stuffed character sitting in an overstuffed easy chair holding a fishing rod, sitting on top of a mid-channel rock. Quite whimsical.
We didn’t find an anchorage that suited us and went around the corner into McKenzie Inlet.
We found good anchorage in a notch along the shore at the end of Peacock Island (55° 19.930’ N / 132° 21.645’ W) and anchored for the night.
We left McKenzie Inlet in a light rain and headed for Dora Bay in Cholmondeley Sound. The rain cleared and as we motored along in an overcast sky and gray seas, along the way we rode up on top of a large 2x12 plank, a 16 footer, which was hidden in the trough of a wave. The boat slowed dramatically as the plank was pushed through the water. After the throttle was shut the plank slowly washed out and passed along side.
It was a nasty looking thing that had several large nails sticking out. We immediately checked the bilge for water and fortunately all was good, we continued without any problems.
When we arrived at Dora Bay we went into the un-named cove (55° 12.920’ N / 132° 16.319’ W) on the west side of the bay and carefully sounded our anchorage before going back out into the bay. We baited the shrimp trap with “canned tuna” per Jim & Zeke’s recommendation. Our depth sounder was not getting a good signal from the bottom and we had a hard time finding a spot for the trap. We left it in about 280 feet – we think.
We spent a little time bottom fishing the last of the flood tide before going back into the anchorage for the night. George caught some rockfish and a Yellow Eye before the bite went off.
September 2, 2007
Mid Morning we pulled anchor and headed for the shrimp trap. We got 1 prawn and 2 rockfish, another disappointment in our quest for shrimp. After motoring back into Cholmondeley Sound (pronounced Shawmlee by the locals). We set the shrimp trap in a likely spot at the narrows in West Arm.After 5 days of updating the Blog, getting squared away, contacting friends of friends as well as Klamath River neighbor Jim Purvis who has "Rustic Resort” on Prince of Whales Island, and arranging to meet with him next Wednesday at Hollis; we left the Yacht Club for a few days of cruising and exploring the east side of Prince of Whales Island.
On our way north out Tongass Narrows we stopped at the South entrance to Bar Harbor and tied Teal to the service dock to provision at nearby Safeway. With the sun shining we headed up the ramp, bought our groceries, and walked out with our overflowing shopping cart – into the RAIN. What a shocker. Of course we were not prepared for such a downpour – our cockpit hadn’t been covered, so we proceeded to unload and store our “wet” supplies. By the time we were squared away the shower passed and the sun reappeared. This taught us that in Ketchickan, one must always expect rain no matter how the sky looks at any given moment.
After turning into Clover Passage we stopped at Knudson Cove (52° 28.338’ N / 131° 47.767’ W) to check out the sparsely provisioned store, and to get hamburgers at the local lunch stand.
We went into Naha Bay Tied to the public dock (55° 35.374’ N / 131° 37. 185’ W) near Loring and took a nice hike up to Roosevelt Lagoon. Over the years, many have taken their skiffs through the tidal rapid at high water and into the lagoon and left them along the shore for more convenient access, some were left with motors. We didn’t see anyone on the lake that day, but we enjoyed our walk along the boardwalk on the west end of the Lagoon. It was a nice quiet afternoon.
August 27
We awoke to turquoise-colored jet-drive tour boats bringing tourists into the entrance to the tidal rapid to check out the spawning salmon no doubt… maybe looking for bears…
We left Loring mid morning and headed for prawning/crabbing spots in Traitors Cove our Klamath River neighbor and long time resident of Ketchikan, Pete Haynes had marked on our charts.
George bought a 2-week Alaska fishing license that becomes effective today at noon. On our way into Traitors Cove, we set the prawn trap (actually called “shrimp” in Alaska as opposed to the Canadians being very specific that it’s “prawn”, as they are also very specific about calling the King Salmon of Alaska "Chinook" Salmon in Canada.
We docked along side the tourist floatplanes at the public dock at Marguerite Bay (52°42.231’ N / 131° 38.304’ W). They bring folks in to view bears on the trails going back into Marguerite Lake. George baited the crab trap with rock fish he had caught from the dock and set the trap out in the bay. Later that afternoon there was a chop coming into the dock so we moved to the mooring out by the island for the night. It was a full moon and eclipse, which we could not see because it was cloudy – no surprise!
After a tranquil night on the mooring we went out and pulled our traps: The shrimp trap had an octopus, 6 mini sand crabs, and only 4 prawns. The crab trap revealed 8 crabs, we kept the 5 largest over 7”.
We are very disappointed that the shrimp were not more abundant as we haven’t had many prawns/shrimp since we left Vancouver Island.
It was raining hard as we motor-sailed on a reach in a four-foot sea across Behm Channel and Clearance Strait. By the time we reached Prince of Whales Island the weather had settled some and the going was smooth.
We went into a little unnamed cove (55° 23.683’ N / 132° 15.063’W) and after carefully sounding the picturesque pocket behind the island in the entrance we set the anchor and settled in for the night.
The little babbling brook trickling into the cove became a full sized stream with each successive down-pour, and by bedtime it was a roaring rapid
August 29
We had about 20 miles to reach Hollis and our meeting with Jim Pervis.
We no more tied Teal to the public dock at Hollis (55° 28.923’N / 132° 38.740’ W) when Jim walked up, He took us to his lodge and after we got settled we headed for a tour of his part of Prince of Wales Island (which the locals refer to as POW).
We stopped at Klawock to shop and check out the community. Our niece and nephew taught school there many years ago, so it was nice to see the area and connect it with the stories we had heard.
The Klawock Totem park is on the hill behind the school.
Jim was involved with the erection of these totems
August 30
We met Zeke Ziegler, a long time friend of Jim’s who joined us for diner, a fresh Coho Zeke had caught that day. He has built a cabin nearby. We were later to learn that most folks on POW and in Ketchikan seem to know Zeke. He’s a die hard fisherman, friendly with a great sense of humor and just happens to live in Medford, Oregon when not at Hollis.